After an arduous 39 hour journey, we are home again. I woke this morning at about 5am with a deep sense of loneliness. For more than three weeks, I had shared close quarters with the boys and Christin. In addition, the world outside our rooms was one that did not subscribe to quiet hours or curfews. People lived their lives loudly, continuously, and nearly on top of one another. The house in Santa Rosa Beach seems so big for just three people, and the silence outside is deafening. But I know that this feeling is only fleeting....too soon I will adapt to our separateness and the relative sterility that those with more means live in in the United States.
I am very glad to be home, for all the reasons I noted earlier, as well as because my last day in Peru was spent mainly in the airport restrooms. When we woke up in Arequipa on Friday morning, both Eddie and I were not feeling well. We had to be at the airport at 6:30am for our flight to Lima. Eddie was vomiting and continued to do so throughout the flight much to our fellow passengers dismay. I was fairly concerned for him at one point as he turned absolutely ghostly white before becoming a hideous shade of yellow. However, once we hit Lima, he had one more trip to the restroom and then made a miraculous recovery much to our relief. By the end of the day, he was making the most of my weakened state to drink Starbucks frappachinos and eat McDonald's hamburgers.
As quickly as Eddie got better, I got worse. We had been planning on using our fifteen hour layover in Lima to check out the local markets, do some shopping, and sample the ceviche that others had been raving about. But I was in no condition to go anywhere. At about 10am, we camped out in four overstuffed chairs in of all places, Starbucks. Some people will know of the utter revulsion I have for patronizing Starbucks, but at that point, Starbucks was my favorite place in the world. The chairs were big enough to sleep on, they had hot water, and they didn't care if we stayed there all day. So we did, listening to Jack Johnson and Nora Jones sing Christmas songs, which was the most comforting thing ever. I got to the point where I could barely stand up and definitely had a fever. I contemplated taking the antibiotics that we had brought for these kinds of cases, but I didn't think I could even keep one down. Christin was, as always, fantastic, bringing me water and soda crackers and entertaining the boys. We literally stayed in that Starbucks for 12 hours, not leaving until it was time to check in for our 12:20am flight.
The rest of our journey consisted of a six hour flight to Miami, an hour train ride to Ft. Lauderdale to pick up my truck, and 12 hours back to the Panhandle. By the time we got home, I think we were pretty much delirious with fatigue. I have made a full recovery, assisted by hot showers, drinkable tap water, and toilets that one can put toilet paper in. The kids are ready to explore their Legos and boardgames and be content to be at home for a bit. I am in homemaker mode, playing Christmas music and feeling the itch to bake something. Our time away has made us so much more content with our time here, as is often the case. My mom asked me what our favorite part of the trip had been when I spoke to her this morning. I considered it for a moment and then had two answers. The first was sandboarding in the desert. That was so much fun and the landscape was completely new to me. But the second was really more "my favorite". It was exploring people different from myself. Seeing how others chose (or are forced) to navigate the lives we are given. Traveling to other countries makes me feel that I have been given another piece of the puzzle-one that I hope to spend my life trying to construct. Because there are so many ways to go about living and so many angles to view the world from, we can never hope to know them all. But traveling gives me the opportunity to see many more than I would while staying at home. I took a philosophy class years ago where the teacher used an analogy of blind men describing an elephant. Where ever each man touched, that was their view of what an elephant looked like. An elephant was a trunk or an ear or a tail or a leg since that was the only part the men knew. Only by gaining their sight, stepping back from the elephant, and viewing the whole animal could these men ever hope to see what it was really like. Such a feat for them was most likely impossible, just as viewing the world in its entirety is most likely impossible for us. However, being aware that one is only touching the trunk or the ear and attempting to explore further is the first step. For me, traveling is a way to explore the elephant.
I wanted to trying blogging about our trip for several reasons. I think it is good for the kids to do some writing, we always keep a record of our trip anyway, and we could share our experiences with our friends and family. But secretly, I also hope that this blog can inspire and give courage to others to travel abroad. Particularly to those with children. I hope that by sharing our trip, someone might feel more comfortable taking their own child to another country. As anyone can see from this blog, there are certainly challenges, and it is definitely not always relaxing. But the benefits of traveling for anyone-if you go with an open mind and heart- are immeasurable. I started traveling with the kids when Wyatt was six and I was scared to death because I had only been out of the country once. But we picked Costa Rica, a fairly mild destination, and gave it a try. As my children and I gain confidence, I hope to spend time in every part of the world, learning about all the wonderful (and not so wonderful!) things out there while giving my children the most expansive view of the elephant that I can. Thank you to our friends and family for all their support and love, while we were gone, as well as everyday. You all are the source that I draw my energy and drive from. Happy Holidays and I look forward to hearing about all the travels we have inspired for the new year!
Love,
Jenny
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Monday, December 14, 2009
Canon del Colca
Thursday morning, the four of us were awakened at 6am by an air raid siren which sounded as though it were about a foot away from our door. The siren blast lasted for about ten minutes straight, but as no one seemed to be rushing about or panicking, we tried to calmly go about our business. When we went downstairs, I asked the desk clerk about the siren. She didn't speak any English and my limited Spanish caught only something about firemen in the main square and "No, of course they don't do this every day" which was a relief.
So with slightly frayed nerves, we joined a group of five other people on a tour headed for the Colca Canyon. I had no idea what to expect since our guide had arranged everything and given no details. I only knew that we were supposed to spend one night there and that any Ariquipena that you talked to would remind us that the Canon del Colca was more than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon. We were happy to be traveling with others as our own companionship was fine but could use some interesting people to spice things up. Our fellow travelers were a
Peruvnian couple from Lima, a Swiss-German couple, and an American man from Las Vegas. The Peruvian woman was on the tour so she could get photos of the dancing and dress typical of that area and then she was going to enter herself in a National Geographic contest. It was funny to me that the Peruvians, because they were from Lima, a world away from Colca Canyon, wanted to explore other Peruvians. That just shows my uneducated bias that all of Peru is inhabited by throwbacks to a different era when in fact, many Limenos are extremely sophisticated, wealthy, and cosmopolitan.
The Swiss-German couple were OK, but the woman was very abrupt and rude to several Peruvians during the course of our trip. And the guy from Las Vegas was a bit of a trip-he was "in" real estate and spends half his year wandering the world. He used the phrase "and I'm all like" way more than anyone who is not a 14-year-old valley girl should. I have found that generally (very generally) when I travel abroad, the people I like least are Americans. Which I find odd because in the United States, there are many, many Americans I like-those people need to start traveling abroad more.
Our trip to the canyon consisted of a four hour ride to the tiny town of Chivay. Once there, we were installed in our hostels and told we would be picked up in an hour to go to the local hot springs. However, by then it was around 5pm and extremely cold-on the way to Chivay at one point it had been snowing. As no one had briefed us on our trip and Arequipa was sunny and hot when we left, Christin and I were wearing flip-flops and tank tops. Needless to say, we put on every piece of clothing we could and once at the hot springs, decided it was way too cold to undress and get into the murky-looking spring water. Instead, we wandered around the mountainside and explored the river adjacent to the springs.
The next day saw us driving another two and a half hours to get to Canon del Condor where there is the most likelihood of seeing South American condors in their natural habitat. We did in fact see about a dozen of them, majestically riding the updrafts that come from the canyon. Colca Canyon itself was beautiful and definitely deep, but all four of us decided that it really can't touch the drama and grandeur of the Grand Canyon. Mostly, we enjoyed thawing out in the sunshine while condors soared next to us.
Next it was back to Chivay for a buffet lunch of traditional Peruvian food. The food was actually very good, but I had gotten a bit cavalier about watching what I ate since we had been in Peru for several weeks now. I had consumed salads and raw fruit on several occasions as well as our chicha experience, without ill effects for the most part. But Chivay is a very small-and I'll say it-dirty town without enough of a tourist flow to ensure a level of hygiene that visitors need to stay well. I ate my fill at the buffet which I would pay for later.
In the meantime, we spent an hour or so watching some traditional dancing in the tiny Plaza de Armas since Chivay happened to be holding a festival for some reason while we were there. The dress was beautiful with intricate embroidery from head to toe. It struck me that in these dreary and colorless surroundings of the high desert, the Peruvians had chosen to dress in a way which brought color to their lives. Sort of a survival adaptation if you will.
Back in Arequipa (four and a half very bumpy, dusty hours later) we packed our bags way beyond what they were meant to carry and headed out on the town for one last night in Peru. We ate again at the falafel house and spent several hours playing cards and laughing with each other. I reflected on how traveling together brings us so much closer and already I was starting to miss the enforced together time that we experience while in another country. Though meeting others and learning to adapt to a new culture is key to our travels, laying bare the cultural bonds that we as a family have is a wonderful side effect that I cherish. That last night, we sort of just took it all in, celebrating our triumph of three weeks in a foreign land. We talked about what our favorite moments and places were and what we were going to miss most. It was nice, very nice....
Jenny
So with slightly frayed nerves, we joined a group of five other people on a tour headed for the Colca Canyon. I had no idea what to expect since our guide had arranged everything and given no details. I only knew that we were supposed to spend one night there and that any Ariquipena that you talked to would remind us that the Canon del Colca was more than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon. We were happy to be traveling with others as our own companionship was fine but could use some interesting people to spice things up. Our fellow travelers were a
Peruvnian couple from Lima, a Swiss-German couple, and an American man from Las Vegas. The Peruvian woman was on the tour so she could get photos of the dancing and dress typical of that area and then she was going to enter herself in a National Geographic contest. It was funny to me that the Peruvians, because they were from Lima, a world away from Colca Canyon, wanted to explore other Peruvians. That just shows my uneducated bias that all of Peru is inhabited by throwbacks to a different era when in fact, many Limenos are extremely sophisticated, wealthy, and cosmopolitan.
The Swiss-German couple were OK, but the woman was very abrupt and rude to several Peruvians during the course of our trip. And the guy from Las Vegas was a bit of a trip-he was "in" real estate and spends half his year wandering the world. He used the phrase "and I'm all like" way more than anyone who is not a 14-year-old valley girl should. I have found that generally (very generally) when I travel abroad, the people I like least are Americans. Which I find odd because in the United States, there are many, many Americans I like-those people need to start traveling abroad more.
Our trip to the canyon consisted of a four hour ride to the tiny town of Chivay. Once there, we were installed in our hostels and told we would be picked up in an hour to go to the local hot springs. However, by then it was around 5pm and extremely cold-on the way to Chivay at one point it had been snowing. As no one had briefed us on our trip and Arequipa was sunny and hot when we left, Christin and I were wearing flip-flops and tank tops. Needless to say, we put on every piece of clothing we could and once at the hot springs, decided it was way too cold to undress and get into the murky-looking spring water. Instead, we wandered around the mountainside and explored the river adjacent to the springs.
The next day saw us driving another two and a half hours to get to Canon del Condor where there is the most likelihood of seeing South American condors in their natural habitat. We did in fact see about a dozen of them, majestically riding the updrafts that come from the canyon. Colca Canyon itself was beautiful and definitely deep, but all four of us decided that it really can't touch the drama and grandeur of the Grand Canyon. Mostly, we enjoyed thawing out in the sunshine while condors soared next to us.
Next it was back to Chivay for a buffet lunch of traditional Peruvian food. The food was actually very good, but I had gotten a bit cavalier about watching what I ate since we had been in Peru for several weeks now. I had consumed salads and raw fruit on several occasions as well as our chicha experience, without ill effects for the most part. But Chivay is a very small-and I'll say it-dirty town without enough of a tourist flow to ensure a level of hygiene that visitors need to stay well. I ate my fill at the buffet which I would pay for later.
In the meantime, we spent an hour or so watching some traditional dancing in the tiny Plaza de Armas since Chivay happened to be holding a festival for some reason while we were there. The dress was beautiful with intricate embroidery from head to toe. It struck me that in these dreary and colorless surroundings of the high desert, the Peruvians had chosen to dress in a way which brought color to their lives. Sort of a survival adaptation if you will.
Back in Arequipa (four and a half very bumpy, dusty hours later) we packed our bags way beyond what they were meant to carry and headed out on the town for one last night in Peru. We ate again at the falafel house and spent several hours playing cards and laughing with each other. I reflected on how traveling together brings us so much closer and already I was starting to miss the enforced together time that we experience while in another country. Though meeting others and learning to adapt to a new culture is key to our travels, laying bare the cultural bonds that we as a family have is a wonderful side effect that I cherish. That last night, we sort of just took it all in, celebrating our triumph of three weeks in a foreign land. We talked about what our favorite moments and places were and what we were going to miss most. It was nice, very nice....
Jenny
Friday, December 11, 2009
cheers!
So much time in between, but I know that Jenny and the kids have been keeping you up tp date. I won´t go over the same stuff, but I will touch upon a few momoents...
I think to be honest I am still trying to process Maccu Picchu. It´s a lot to take in! Not only the immense beauty and awe, but learning and seeing first hand the pure genius of the Incas...Not something I thought I would ever do, but feel so lucky to have witnessed...and, Mom, get ready! October 12, 2014...
So, today is Friday...I think´we´re all pretty ready...the last 24 hours were unexpectedly trying. We knew we were going to check out Colca Canyon (larger than the Grand Canyon), but I at least certainly did not know that we would be on a 5 hour drive to get there! I´m all about adventure, but the long bumpy, dusty drive wore me to the core. We were however lucky enough to see condors gliding through the air with presence and grace (but I think we decided the Grand Canyon is in fact more grand - the colors don´t compare).
I am looking forward to tomorrow - we get to be on our own again, explore at our own speed; we´re going to a Farmer´s Market outside of Lima...
Like Jenny mentioned, we have been going nonstop for 3 weeks staight, and going at a pace and style that we are not accustomed to...though it has been an incredible adventure! One that I am surely thankful for...I love traveling as the four of us. I love seeing things through all of our different eyes...we all add something ünique to the trip...certainly in some ways, this is the end of an era...
...as happy and as thrilled and as excited I am for the upcoming move to San Diego...it does mean not as much time spent as the crazy foursome that we have become!
ok, muy cansada, looking forward to my last (inside) shower for awhile...and don´t want to get too sappy in this strange office...
so, thnaks everyone for joining along - i´m sure we will probably add more even after we get home - pictures for sure, forgotten stories, silly moments...
until then,
mucho amore and many besos from Peru!
christin
I think to be honest I am still trying to process Maccu Picchu. It´s a lot to take in! Not only the immense beauty and awe, but learning and seeing first hand the pure genius of the Incas...Not something I thought I would ever do, but feel so lucky to have witnessed...and, Mom, get ready! October 12, 2014...
So, today is Friday...I think´we´re all pretty ready...the last 24 hours were unexpectedly trying. We knew we were going to check out Colca Canyon (larger than the Grand Canyon), but I at least certainly did not know that we would be on a 5 hour drive to get there! I´m all about adventure, but the long bumpy, dusty drive wore me to the core. We were however lucky enough to see condors gliding through the air with presence and grace (but I think we decided the Grand Canyon is in fact more grand - the colors don´t compare).
I am looking forward to tomorrow - we get to be on our own again, explore at our own speed; we´re going to a Farmer´s Market outside of Lima...
Like Jenny mentioned, we have been going nonstop for 3 weeks staight, and going at a pace and style that we are not accustomed to...though it has been an incredible adventure! One that I am surely thankful for...I love traveling as the four of us. I love seeing things through all of our different eyes...we all add something ünique to the trip...certainly in some ways, this is the end of an era...
...as happy and as thrilled and as excited I am for the upcoming move to San Diego...it does mean not as much time spent as the crazy foursome that we have become!
ok, muy cansada, looking forward to my last (inside) shower for awhile...and don´t want to get too sappy in this strange office...
so, thnaks everyone for joining along - i´m sure we will probably add more even after we get home - pictures for sure, forgotten stories, silly moments...
until then,
mucho amore and many besos from Peru!
christin
Oddly...
We made it from Cusco on Wednesday despite the rain, with no delays. We spent the evening orienting ourselves to Arequipa, visiting the beautiful Plaza de Armas and having dinner at a kebab/falafel-hole-in-the-wall. The four of us strolled the pedestrian-only streets lined with hundreds of years old buildings famously made from basalt. Then we spent a good chunk of time searching for Peruvian flavored ice cream. Turns out we shouldn't have wasted our time. Our first stop found us with cones of coconut, chocolate chip, manjar (carmel) and lucuma (a Peruvian fruit) ice cream. The consensus was that all of the flavors tasted the same....sort of like when you accidentally open your mouth while spraying perfume. On the way back to the hotel, we spotted another heladeria and thought we should give Peruvian ice cream a second chance. We chose canela (cinnamon) and (seperately) mango. No go with those either-the mango tasted like chewing on a bar of antibacterial soap. We will try not to judge Peru's sweet tooth by these two shops alone, but I can say that this is the first time I have ever seen my children throw ice cream away.
Christin and I had a long talk in our hostal room in Arequipa Wednesday night. Despite our pleasant evening, we were both feeling a bit road weary. Our thoughts had turned toward home and I think all of us could have easily stayed on the plane which was headed for Lima next. This feeling didn't set well with us as we are on the trip of a lifetime, right? But after a bit, I realized that for me at least, there were several other issues going on:
1. Realistically, we have been going nonstop for the last three weeks. With the exception of one day, we have had to be out of bed by 6:30 am or earlier every day. We're tired.
2. I can't emphasis enough how I would not change the company I am in for the world. But I am responsible for a lot as far as making sure the kids are up and ready, have clean (or semi-clean) clothes, we have all the wipes, sunblock, rain coats, gloves, books, passports, snacks and bottled water-always with the bottled water-that we need. This isn't extremely different than at home but more concentrated and more neccessary as we can't pull off to the Tom Thumb or 7-11 and grab what we forgot. Being ever vigilant that no one bites a fruit that hasn't been thouroughly washed or brushes their teeth with tap water gets a bit old after awhile. I don't usually do well when I am forced to keep super close tabs on the kids-part of the reason I have raised them to be as independent as they are comfortable with.
3. I have been finding it increasingly difficult to keep my head space wholly in Peru this last week. For me, I think it is because we have so much coming up in the near future. Christmas and all its attendant preperations, of course, but also our big move in February to San Diego. I certainly don't want to live my life looking to the next thing without enjoying the moment I am in, but I am happy that I have lots of good things coming up in the future.
4. Finally, my main purpose in coming to Peru was to experience the people, to learn about their political and economic situation and how their culture fits into that. And also to hopefully contribute something positive to someone (preferably many someones) life. We did that in Ayacucho. Of course we can't leave the country without exploring it further and seeing the world famous ruins of Macchu Picchu. But I think after our time in Ayacucho, it feels a bit superflous and extravegant to just galavant about entertaining ourselves at quite a bit of expense. Particularly how we are going about it is not Christin and my's favorite way to travel. Our guide's arrangements have been flawless and have made things go very smoothly, but there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of challenge in it. The challenges of traveling to a foreign country, and the thrill of overcoming those challenges, are for us, at least half the enjoyment. I think we are missing the frustration of having no idea how to get to the next destination, and the triumph of figuring it out anyway.
Anyway, now that I have catalouged why Wednesday in particular I was feeling apathetic, I am going to set my mind firmly back in the heart of Peru and make the most of our last few days....before we know it, we will be missing our perilous mototaxi drivers and our bread and hot water breakfasts.
Jenny
(Sorry for the spelling errors...spellcheck doesn't seem to work on this computer...)
Christin and I had a long talk in our hostal room in Arequipa Wednesday night. Despite our pleasant evening, we were both feeling a bit road weary. Our thoughts had turned toward home and I think all of us could have easily stayed on the plane which was headed for Lima next. This feeling didn't set well with us as we are on the trip of a lifetime, right? But after a bit, I realized that for me at least, there were several other issues going on:
1. Realistically, we have been going nonstop for the last three weeks. With the exception of one day, we have had to be out of bed by 6:30 am or earlier every day. We're tired.
2. I can't emphasis enough how I would not change the company I am in for the world. But I am responsible for a lot as far as making sure the kids are up and ready, have clean (or semi-clean) clothes, we have all the wipes, sunblock, rain coats, gloves, books, passports, snacks and bottled water-always with the bottled water-that we need. This isn't extremely different than at home but more concentrated and more neccessary as we can't pull off to the Tom Thumb or 7-11 and grab what we forgot. Being ever vigilant that no one bites a fruit that hasn't been thouroughly washed or brushes their teeth with tap water gets a bit old after awhile. I don't usually do well when I am forced to keep super close tabs on the kids-part of the reason I have raised them to be as independent as they are comfortable with.
3. I have been finding it increasingly difficult to keep my head space wholly in Peru this last week. For me, I think it is because we have so much coming up in the near future. Christmas and all its attendant preperations, of course, but also our big move in February to San Diego. I certainly don't want to live my life looking to the next thing without enjoying the moment I am in, but I am happy that I have lots of good things coming up in the future.
4. Finally, my main purpose in coming to Peru was to experience the people, to learn about their political and economic situation and how their culture fits into that. And also to hopefully contribute something positive to someone (preferably many someones) life. We did that in Ayacucho. Of course we can't leave the country without exploring it further and seeing the world famous ruins of Macchu Picchu. But I think after our time in Ayacucho, it feels a bit superflous and extravegant to just galavant about entertaining ourselves at quite a bit of expense. Particularly how we are going about it is not Christin and my's favorite way to travel. Our guide's arrangements have been flawless and have made things go very smoothly, but there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of challenge in it. The challenges of traveling to a foreign country, and the thrill of overcoming those challenges, are for us, at least half the enjoyment. I think we are missing the frustration of having no idea how to get to the next destination, and the triumph of figuring it out anyway.
Anyway, now that I have catalouged why Wednesday in particular I was feeling apathetic, I am going to set my mind firmly back in the heart of Peru and make the most of our last few days....before we know it, we will be missing our perilous mototaxi drivers and our bread and hot water breakfasts.
Jenny
(Sorry for the spelling errors...spellcheck doesn't seem to work on this computer...)
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
oposit of alot
Today we visited the market and walked up a lot of stairs. We had hot chocolate with Peruvian marshmallows for breakfast. Oh,and we packed bags.
Wyatt
Wyatt
Buenos Tardes Amigos!
lo siento for the long break - we´ve been away from the internet and i´ve been sick. Nothing in comparison to Wyatt´s ordeal, so an ear infection and a runny nose is no excuse! So, onward we trudge...I know Jenny has kept you posted on most of the daily adventures, but I haven´t had a chance to talk about my last day at school.
Emotional in many ways, but I left on such a positive note, it´s hard to be sad. I brought in an art project - they all had so much fun! Professora Maria even made one! I took pictures of each of them with their beautiful plates! After putting the plates way high up on the cubbies so they could dry (this was a chore - they all wanted to keep them close - I don´t know how many times I had to pull Harold down!) After this I had them sit on the floor so I could thank them for letting me come in and help out, took lots of silly pictures, and gave them each a piece of gum!
Maria had asked me a few days earlier if I would come to her house...not only was I not sure if this was "allowed" but I certainly didn´t know how to relate this to her...so, once the end of the day came she asked again and asked if Rudy the program director could come in so we could ask. Seemed like it was a go!
I think I was a little nervous, but once 3:oo came around and I was welcomed into her home...I realized I could have stayed forever and I knew 4:00 would come way too fast!
She has a beautiful home - one of her son´s, his wife and two daughters live upstairs while she and her parents live downstairs. (Maria´s huband lives and works in Lima)I felt so fortunate to meet her parents - it was reminiscent of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory - they were sweetly laying in beds in their room. As I held their hands, I told both of them what a pleasure it was to know and work with their daughter.
After this, Maria, her two grandaughters, and I sat on the couch and looked through pictures...We all had brought some from home to show thekids at school, so as I was going through, I came across one from Jenny´s graduation. Maria then excitedly got up andbrought back hers...she has just recently started teaching - at 48, she went back to school! Oh, how I wish I had known the word for PROUD.
After this, we retired to the cocina for tea and crackers. Maria asked when I would be back - she wanted to make sure I knew I was welcome to stay in her home...we made sure to exchange information - our birthdays are one day apart, so our emails are so very similiar!!!!
The knock on the door came as a jolt...we were just really getting comforytable, and I was feeling so lucky. It was hard to say goodbye...but truly how lucky I feel to have worked with her and her students. Maria is truly a wonderful teacher...
The rest of the afternoon was spent busily packing and doing last minute litle thin gs...but the sweet feeling of being in Maria´s home and our last hug lingers on...
Muchas Gracias...
lo siento for the long break - we´ve been away from the internet and i´ve been sick. Nothing in comparison to Wyatt´s ordeal, so an ear infection and a runny nose is no excuse! So, onward we trudge...I know Jenny has kept you posted on most of the daily adventures, but I haven´t had a chance to talk about my last day at school.
Emotional in many ways, but I left on such a positive note, it´s hard to be sad. I brought in an art project - they all had so much fun! Professora Maria even made one! I took pictures of each of them with their beautiful plates! After putting the plates way high up on the cubbies so they could dry (this was a chore - they all wanted to keep them close - I don´t know how many times I had to pull Harold down!) After this I had them sit on the floor so I could thank them for letting me come in and help out, took lots of silly pictures, and gave them each a piece of gum!
Maria had asked me a few days earlier if I would come to her house...not only was I not sure if this was "allowed" but I certainly didn´t know how to relate this to her...so, once the end of the day came she asked again and asked if Rudy the program director could come in so we could ask. Seemed like it was a go!
I think I was a little nervous, but once 3:oo came around and I was welcomed into her home...I realized I could have stayed forever and I knew 4:00 would come way too fast!
She has a beautiful home - one of her son´s, his wife and two daughters live upstairs while she and her parents live downstairs. (Maria´s huband lives and works in Lima)I felt so fortunate to meet her parents - it was reminiscent of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory - they were sweetly laying in beds in their room. As I held their hands, I told both of them what a pleasure it was to know and work with their daughter.
After this, Maria, her two grandaughters, and I sat on the couch and looked through pictures...We all had brought some from home to show thekids at school, so as I was going through, I came across one from Jenny´s graduation. Maria then excitedly got up andbrought back hers...she has just recently started teaching - at 48, she went back to school! Oh, how I wish I had known the word for PROUD.
After this, we retired to the cocina for tea and crackers. Maria asked when I would be back - she wanted to make sure I knew I was welcome to stay in her home...we made sure to exchange information - our birthdays are one day apart, so our emails are so very similiar!!!!
The knock on the door came as a jolt...we were just really getting comforytable, and I was feeling so lucky. It was hard to say goodbye...but truly how lucky I feel to have worked with her and her students. Maria is truly a wonderful teacher...
The rest of the afternoon was spent busily packing and doing last minute litle thin gs...but the sweet feeling of being in Maria´s home and our last hug lingers on...
Muchas Gracias...
Just Kidding....Lots of Rain
Today we are supposed to fly from Cusco to Arequipa where we will spend the remainder of our time in Peru. Our plane leaves in about two hours but it is pouring which may mean no flight for us. It is the start of the rainy season (though the official start date is the 15th of December) and there is the definite possibility that we could spend the rest of our time here in Cusco-which wouldn't necessarily be bad.
To continue from my last post (we did indeed find pancakes) on our way to Macchu Picchu, we stopped at the Pisac market which is ultra touristy but also retains some authenticity as Quechua-speaking women are also there with their produce. The market is huge and one could spend hours on end there. We only got one hour but managed to do some damage. Just about anything you could want is available there, as well as a few things you don't. We also ran into some of our housemates who were trying to get to Macchu Picchu without much luck. We hooked them up with our guide who gave them instructions on the best method to get there. It is sort of ironic that we keep meeting up with people from the house, however, there is a definite path that most tourists follow called the "Gringo Trail". It is annoying in one way, but at least we had a bit of a more authentic experience by staying in Ayacucho for two weeks and of course by volunteering at our placements.
After the market, we drove to Ollantaytambo which is one of the most well-preserved examples of an Inca village. The little town was beautiful, with amazing stonework and the original drainage system still in tact. The Incas were very into straight lines and cleanliness....they would probably be diagnosed with OCD today. From Ollantaytambo, we took the Vistadome train to Aguas Calientes, also known as Macchu Picchu Pueblo, and the jumping off point to visit the ruins. The train ride wound down into the cloud forest of the jungle, following the Rio Urubamba all the way. At many points, we couldn't see the ground below us and it looked like the train was floating on mid-air. There were lots of great tunnels cut straight through the mountains and bromeliads contrasted with mile-high snow capped peaks. After about an hour and a half, we reached Aguas Calientes. The Lonely Planet guide had described this town as unpleasant with uncontrolled development, however, I found it one of the cutest little places we've been. There are no cars in Aguas Calientes, only the train tracks, and the Aguas Calientes river cuts through the main square before shortly meeting the Rio Urubamba in a raging torrent. We stayed at Gringo Bill's, a hostel run by Margarita and her son Lawrence as Gringo Bill is no longer in the picture. We loved the atmosphere and our rooms were the most comfortable so far. Unfortunately, we only had one night there.
The next morning we got up bright and early to take the bus to the ruins. The bus went through tropical scenery at break-neck speed, around switchbacks on the edge of the cliffs. We did, however, make it in one piece. I was disappointed when our guide strongly urged against hiking up Waynu Picchu, but once we started up just the basic trail to the ruins, I realized he was more than right. The Incas were obviously extremely healthy and fit people. Everywhere is stone steps and steep inclines. In fact, our guide said that the people in the Andean highlands today, Incan descendants, have more blood and larger hearts and lungs than those of us that live at reasonable altitudes. Macchu Picchu itself was beyond words. The shear immensity of the scenery surrounding the site is overwhelming. Wandering through the ruins and imagining what life was like here 500 years ago is something I could do all day. And here again one finds the attention to detail in the stonework and the ingenuity of a people that had their own "universities", sanitation systems, aqueducts, and hierarchy which allowed for the construction of these massive stone buildings. These are the same people that the Spanish felt were no better than animals-and treated them as such.
We spent about five hours at the ruins and by then we were sun burnt, out of water, and exhausted. We were only too happy to head back to the bus, then the train, then the private van back to Cusco for a good nights rest. Our guide bade us goodbye once we were back in Cusco as he needed to get back to his restaurant in Nazca. We consulted our guide books and chose to eat at Jack's Cafe in the San Blas district of Cusco. It was a fantastic meal, the first of several we have had here. I am always interested in trying the local foods, however, most Peruvian food seems to be spicy and laden with meat, two things that I am not fond of. So it has been a nice break to have some international choices while we are in Cusco. Touristy places do have some benefits, much as we hate to admit it.
Jenny
To continue from my last post (we did indeed find pancakes) on our way to Macchu Picchu, we stopped at the Pisac market which is ultra touristy but also retains some authenticity as Quechua-speaking women are also there with their produce. The market is huge and one could spend hours on end there. We only got one hour but managed to do some damage. Just about anything you could want is available there, as well as a few things you don't. We also ran into some of our housemates who were trying to get to Macchu Picchu without much luck. We hooked them up with our guide who gave them instructions on the best method to get there. It is sort of ironic that we keep meeting up with people from the house, however, there is a definite path that most tourists follow called the "Gringo Trail". It is annoying in one way, but at least we had a bit of a more authentic experience by staying in Ayacucho for two weeks and of course by volunteering at our placements.
After the market, we drove to Ollantaytambo which is one of the most well-preserved examples of an Inca village. The little town was beautiful, with amazing stonework and the original drainage system still in tact. The Incas were very into straight lines and cleanliness....they would probably be diagnosed with OCD today. From Ollantaytambo, we took the Vistadome train to Aguas Calientes, also known as Macchu Picchu Pueblo, and the jumping off point to visit the ruins. The train ride wound down into the cloud forest of the jungle, following the Rio Urubamba all the way. At many points, we couldn't see the ground below us and it looked like the train was floating on mid-air. There were lots of great tunnels cut straight through the mountains and bromeliads contrasted with mile-high snow capped peaks. After about an hour and a half, we reached Aguas Calientes. The Lonely Planet guide had described this town as unpleasant with uncontrolled development, however, I found it one of the cutest little places we've been. There are no cars in Aguas Calientes, only the train tracks, and the Aguas Calientes river cuts through the main square before shortly meeting the Rio Urubamba in a raging torrent. We stayed at Gringo Bill's, a hostel run by Margarita and her son Lawrence as Gringo Bill is no longer in the picture. We loved the atmosphere and our rooms were the most comfortable so far. Unfortunately, we only had one night there.
The next morning we got up bright and early to take the bus to the ruins. The bus went through tropical scenery at break-neck speed, around switchbacks on the edge of the cliffs. We did, however, make it in one piece. I was disappointed when our guide strongly urged against hiking up Waynu Picchu, but once we started up just the basic trail to the ruins, I realized he was more than right. The Incas were obviously extremely healthy and fit people. Everywhere is stone steps and steep inclines. In fact, our guide said that the people in the Andean highlands today, Incan descendants, have more blood and larger hearts and lungs than those of us that live at reasonable altitudes. Macchu Picchu itself was beyond words. The shear immensity of the scenery surrounding the site is overwhelming. Wandering through the ruins and imagining what life was like here 500 years ago is something I could do all day. And here again one finds the attention to detail in the stonework and the ingenuity of a people that had their own "universities", sanitation systems, aqueducts, and hierarchy which allowed for the construction of these massive stone buildings. These are the same people that the Spanish felt were no better than animals-and treated them as such.
We spent about five hours at the ruins and by then we were sun burnt, out of water, and exhausted. We were only too happy to head back to the bus, then the train, then the private van back to Cusco for a good nights rest. Our guide bade us goodbye once we were back in Cusco as he needed to get back to his restaurant in Nazca. We consulted our guide books and chose to eat at Jack's Cafe in the San Blas district of Cusco. It was a fantastic meal, the first of several we have had here. I am always interested in trying the local foods, however, most Peruvian food seems to be spicy and laden with meat, two things that I am not fond of. So it has been a nice break to have some international choices while we are in Cusco. Touristy places do have some benefits, much as we hate to admit it.
Jenny
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